Wednesday, January 15, 2014

A little schooling on AcNe!

I have been working with dermatologists for 7 years now. I can literally dictate the consultations my doctor has with patients regarding any skin condition, especially acne.   I have seen very mild acne to the worse you can imagine. All treated very differently and all treatments targeted to a specific kind.
Prescriptions target different kinds of acne.

There are blackheads and white heads. This is call comedonal acne.

There are deep red pimples called inflammatory acne

There are cysts called cystic acne ( this one tends to be more scarring.
 

and then there is the hormonal acne. This tends to be in a beard like distribution (chin, neck, jawline) and is usually along your period.

For blackheads and whiteheads, the best treatment is a retinoid. (Retin A or Retrinol) These are clogged pores. So the Retin A exfoliates them and that way the oil dries up (this is why retin a makes you peel) and then the head makes its way up.

*Personally if your not too patient with this or cant get your hands on the medication, invest in an Comedone extractor. They are about $5 at drugstores and are amazing! They put the pressure around the acne lesion and make it pop to the surface. Kind of like squeezing a pimple. Some deeper ones need a little "unroofing" So what I do is get a needle (any) gently insert the sharp end on the black or white head giving it a way out, then applying the extractor gently over the top an watching the substance come out. It is sooooooooooooo satisfying and doesn't scar.  FYI Look for them on Amazon if you cant find them, its nice having them around.. there are also some sold with the sharp end so that can be your unroofer.

Deeper red pimples at the office are usually treated with antibiotic pills. The antibiotic helps the inflammation and bacterial in the skin go away. These can be treated with benzoyl peroxide which is over the counter. It literally dries out the pimple. If you cant get any, put some tooth paste on it over night.  At the office we also inject these with cortisone and they disappear in 24 hours. (good for emergencies like weddings)

Cystic acne are the really big ones that look lilke they have PUS inside. Although sometimes you think that popping them is the way to go, the redness and irritation after popping them make them more visible. Again I would recommend a combination of the extractor method and the Benzoyl peroxide/or tooth paste on it. Don't wait too long to see a dermatologist for this. Scarring can not be undone. Sometimes hard measures are needed like ACCUTANE

Hormonal acne is a stubborn one. It is that breakout that comes with your before your period around the chin, neck, jawline. There is only one good way of treating and avoiding this and it is a birth control. Now, you must know that NOT ALL birthcontrol pills are equally acne friendly. If you have progesterone in your pills or if you have the MIRENA IUD, you are getting more progesterone (hormone) and guess what is the hormone that causes this acne..PROGESTERONE!  Stay clear from the pills that have "Lo" in the end like Ortho Tryclen Lo. A good hint is that if the pill or method is preventing a period from coming then your probably going to flare your acne instead of helping.


Washing your face is always a help when treating acne. I wash my face at night as well as in the morning. I use an oil free sunscreen and never go to bed with makeup on. Its has been my little help for keeping my face clear.

Another help is using a wash with salicylic acid. This helps acne a lot too but some people's skin might be too sensitive, but this is another option. Purpose by Johnson and Johnson is a cheap easy wash that cleanses your skin without adding anything chemicals.

Food can sometimes be a trigger. Ive heard of people going on gluten free diets and their acne and other skin problems like eczema go away.

Otherwise you're looking at prescriptions and procedures. Look in your makeup bag and make sure everything is oil free and not too heavy. Moisturizing isn't always acnes best friend so don't put anything heavy on your face. Stick to oil free moisturizing lotions instead of heavy creams. I personally like CeRave.

Hope his is a good start for y'all!

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